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The AW23 Trend Report

Words By
Edited By
Leather Weather
Zimmermann
Gabriela Hearst
Proenza Schouler

Leather comes into its own during autumn and winter. In the season’s unpredictable weather, it’s as functional as it is stylish, and just one leather piece in your wardrobe is enough to add an edgy twist to your staples. Whether you opt for an easy-to-wear pair of leather trousers, softened by pairing with wool and cashmere, as seen at Proenza Schouler, or go full pelt with a leather dress for a winter wedding or event – we loved the strapless version worn with combat boots at Gabriela Hearst – leather is an ageless addition to your wardrobe. Don’t feel like you have to stick to black, though – rich burgundy and brown are great seasonal alternatives that look and feel less harsh than black.

Hot Red
Eudon Choi
Theory
Stella McCartney

Red never goes out of style, but this season it’s all about a particularly vibrant, brighter-than-bright shade of rouge. On the catwalk, it was worn head-to-toe (lipstick included) for maximum impact at Stella McCartney, Theory and Eudon Choi – a great styling idea for autumn and winter events. But if that’s a little too far for you, try adding just one piece in this zingy shade into your wardrobe, like an oversized blazer or knit – red always pairs well with denim, as well as typically autumnal shades such as camel, burgundy and black.

En-Trenched
Tory Burch
Alexander McQueen
Isabel Marant

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again – the trench is always a good idea, especially for autumn, when it comes into its own in the transitional-weather period. If you already have one in your wardrobe, take inspiration from the looks of the season by keeping styling classic. We loved it thrown over a denim skirt at Tory Burch – a huge trend from spring and summer that you can carry through – and cinched at the waist with sleeves pushed up at Alexander McQueen – a great way to make it feel more work-ready and formal.

Clutch Control
Ferragamo
Jil Sander
Miu Miu

It’s time to pack away your basket bag and get ready for the new season’s styling trick – a bag carried like a clutch. No need to buy a new bag, this is simply about reworking what you’ve already got and looking at it in a different way. Possibly not the best option for your everything-but-the-kitchen-sink everyday tote, but a great way to rethink how you wear your favourite bags for evening and events.

Slouchy Denim
Gucci
Victoria Beckham
Bottega Veneta

Jeans have slowly been getting more relaxed over the last few seasons, and we like it. This season, it’s less about wide-leg styles and more about an overall more slouchy silhouette when it comes to denim – looser all over and puddling at the hem, as seen at Gucci, Victoria Beckham and Bottega Veneta, where they were styled to perfection with a plain white tank (a hard-working forever staple), bag-as-clutch (see previous trend), and a pale pink shirt tied nonchalantly around the waist.

The Gathered Dress
Tove
Altuzarra
Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini

If you favour simple pieces with subtle twists, the gathered dress is for you. In tones from traditionally autumnal to light neutrals, they were a notable trend on the catwalks, and a gathering of ruching is a timeless feature that always has a place in your wardrobe. Super-flattering, it works best on fabrics like jersey, turning what could be a boring piece into something altogether more special. Keep accessories pared back and minimal.

Knee-High-And-Over Boots
Stella McCartney
Isabel Marant
Loewe

Whether grazing the knee or hugging the thigh, long boots are big news this season, and the perfect way to transport some of your spring and summer pieces into autumn. Take Isabel Marant’s lead and use over-the-knee boots to carry short floral dresses into cooler weather, or follow Stella McCartney and Loewe’s advice and use them as a way to restyle oversized shirts and blazers as outfits in their own right.

Buttery Yellow
Loewe
Prada
Tove

Soft, buttery yellow is by far our favourite shade of the season. It’s probably a colour most associated with spring and summer, but there really needn’t be any seasonal barriers when it comes to colours – if a colour works for you, it works all year round so embrace it, whatever the weather. This silky tone was seen on an array of styles, from evening dresses to knitwear and outerwear, proving its versatility. It’s particularly beautiful when paired with simple black or white.

Simple Suiting
Gabriela Hearst
Eudon Choi
The Row

Though the silhouettes may alter, in general, suiting never dates, and you’ll wear it the most in autumn and winter. On the catwalk, it was simple and classic (just how we like it). Styled with practical flat shoes and minimal accessories, trousers were cut looser and blazers slightly oversized, in neutral tones like stone beige and soft brown. Look to The Row and Gabriela Hearst for your ultimate low-key-but-luxe workwear inspiration.

The Crisp White Shirt
Alexander McQueen
Proenza Schouler
Prada

We know you’ll already have one of these hanging in your wardrobe, making it the perfect trend. This season, rather than using it as a foolproof outfit building block, make it the star of the show by contrasting with black separates and forgoing any spotlight-stealing accessories, to form an impactful look. Buttoned-up, open cuffs, untucked, tucked… it doesn’t matter how you wear it, it’s the intention that matters.

Statement Studs
Rokh
Zimmermann
Ferragamo

A statement earring is always something worth having in your style arsenal. They’re big news (literally) this season, in the form of sculptural, oversized studs. Unlike longer chandelier styles, they work well with any neckline and look particularly good with short hair and updos. Invest in one great pair and you can wear them anywhere – from work to weddings and everything in between – a fuss-free style statement that will pep up any outfit.

The XL Black Coat
Gucci
Tove
Givenchy

Coat season is almost upon us. An essential piece for chillier temperatures, it’s important to get it right – especially as it will become the finishing layer to every outfit for at least the next four months. If you’re on the lookout for something new this year, opt for black, extra-long and oversized – a classic combination that was seen all over the catwalk but also won’t date. Go for the highest wool content you can afford (it will wear better than synthetic fabrics), invest in getting it professionally dry-cleaned at the end of each winter and store with moth-prevention products like lavender bags or cedar balls in the spring and summer months to prolong its lifespan.

The Knitted Dress
Fendi
Tod's
Coach

You can’t go wrong with a knitted dress, as the catwalks prove. One of the most versatile items you can invest in, this is a piece that will see you through to next spring with ease. Wear now with ballet flats or trainers, then switch to chunky-soled flat or mid-heeled boots as the temperature drops.