The ICONS Autumn/Winter Trend Report

Returning to the spirit of Chloé was Chemena Kamali’s vision for her first collection as creative director. And that spirit? Boho, ethereal elegance. For those of us with a hardworking uniform of staples, that means pairing soft, loose-fit midi and maxi dresses with slouchy leather and suede boots – ’70s icons, but styled with an undeniably modern point of view.

A pair of camel trousers (much like a camel coat) is a piece we come back to year after year. This time around, the silhouette feels modern – they’re slouchy, loose-fit strides rather than workwear staples. What we’re most excited about is the styling inspiration to make our own camel slacks feel new. For a preppy, androgynous aesthetic, make like the models at Tommy Hilfiger and style yours low-slung with a relaxed-fit shirt, baseball cap and box-fresh trainers.

We’ve always loved rollnecks, but truly inspiring styling ideas have traditionally been hard to come by. Until now. This season, think of yours as a luxe layering piece. Bottega Veneta made the case for adding a shirt over a lightweight turtleneck, while Max Mara and Michael Kors showed us how to combine them with two of our favourite things – tailoring and a skinny belt. Winter workwear, solved.

Pointed-toe shoes might sound prim and proper, but on a sliding scale from trad wife to rock ’n’ roll, this season’s offering is firmly the latter. There’s no one-size-fits-all; choose from smart patent slingbacks in shocking scarlet at Carolina Herrera, ’80s-inspired leopard-print styles at Michael Kors or extra-special party flats at Prada.

Oversized coats have always been a smart investment. This season, masculine, double-breasted silhouettes in longer lengths reigned supreme on the runways. For daytime, take your styling cues from the Max Mara and Proenza Schouler collections – pairing your coat with flat leather knee-high boots. Or, for something smarter, channel the Givenchy show by juxtaposing mannish tailoring with satin separates and matching heels.

Yes, really. This autumn, grey isn’t fading into the background. High saturation, intentional and not even a little bit wishy-washy, it feels like both a neutral and a statement at once. Need inspiration? Look to skirt suits that play with proportions at Carven, a knitted Max Mara maxi dress to wear on repeat this season and far beyond, and a reimagining of the traditional grey suit trouser at Tod’s.

For cosy enthusiasts, these classic knits likely never went away. But what is new is the fresh outfit ideas served up at this season’s shows. Ulla Johnson showed us how to double up on Fair Isle prints, while No.21 breathed new life into heritage knits for party season – styling theirs with a sheer, bejewelled midi skirt and ladylike points. Inspired.

A well-worn classic jacket and jeans combination this is not – double denim for autumn feels luxe and fiercely feminine. Our favourite styles to try? Zimmermann layered a sheer mesh rollneck underneath for a sexy, ’70s take on the trend, while (unsurprisingly) Christian Dior showed us denim decadence with a longer-length denim coat paired with a shirt dress and wide-leg jeans – in smart, dark indigo.

The easy-to-throw-on knit feels all new for autumn. In a rethink of how and where we wear cardigans, designers showcased longer-length styles and loose-fit silhouettes that feel more like outerwear than knitwear. Our favourites? Belted and collared blazer-like cardis at Chanel and three-piece matching co-ords at Ferragamo.

A pair of perfect-fit knee high boots (particularly in this season’s fuss-free silhouettes) is an investment that will serve you and your wardrobe well for years to come. We love how, along with a matching leather bag, they can transform a coat from an essential component into a complete outfit – see the Celine and Tod’s shows for easy-to-recreate inspiration.

If you’ve experimented with ruby-red socks or sweet ballet flats for the last few months, you’ll know firsthand the joy they can spark. And so to the new season, we’re going one step further by embracing the rollneck slinky red dress with matching red flats for work, sandals for late-summer dinner plans (Proenza Schouler is your pin-up here) or pointed-toe heels when festive plans commence.

If, in previous seasons, you happened to find the perfect leather midi skirt, it’s time to take it out of storage. The Autumn/Winter catwalks delivered a plethora of styling ideas to make it feel fresh. For workwear inspiration, think about adding your favourite shirt and a rollneck to high-waisted silhouettes, as seen at Bottega Veneta. Or, look to Stella McCartney’s high-shine, faux-snakeskin midi contrasted with tactile, oversized knits for easy, cosy cool.

When we think of wearing top-to-toe neutrals for autumn, we usually conjure up something understated and elegant in black, navy or grey. But, this year, think about adding khaki green into the mix with skirt suits and matching soft separates. We’re particularly excited to try this out for party season, channelling the Gucci show by layering a khaki long-length coat over a green, extra-special cocktail dress.

We thought belts were having a big moment for summer – but they were just getting started. Outfit-making in every way, this autumn, use your leather waist belt to cinch in oversized knits and tailoring (look to Chanel and Michael Kors for styling notes). They also doubled up as jewels at Chloé, spelling out the brand’s name in gold cursive – an understated take on logomania and a clever way to incorporate mixed metals when busy necklines are at play.